Qingzang railway - Chengdu to Lhasa in Tibet

Photo: 27 Nov 2007 Posted:25 October 2009

Given a choice between traveling by train and just about any other form of transport over land, I'd go with the train. As a train junkie, the (relatively) new line that runs all the way to Lhasa was very high on the list of things to do, and it didn't disappoint.

It holds a number of records - the worlds highest railway - being the most obvious. Its a record I can't see being surpassed any time soon. Its also the first time I've been in a train that has oxygen pumped into the cabin in an effort to reduce the risk of altitude sickenss!

As far as spectacular train trips go, this probably tops my list (so far). Its not a short trip - from the time I left Chengdu to arrival in Lhasa was a total of 2 days, but if you get the more expensive tickets (RMB 1,112 or ax.US$139), you get two days in a luxury sleeper cabin and amazing scenery the whole way.

You may notice from the date of this photo that its taken in the Tibetan winter. While this isn't the most comfortable time to travel, its a relatively safe time (in terms of avoiding avalanches on mountain passes) and also the time when you get the clearest weather and the best chance of seeing the Himalayas clear of cloud cover.

Photo: Olympus E510 +11-22mm @ 11mm, 1/250sec, f9, ISO100. Why is the sky so blue? Three main reasons: (1) The location is at high altitude where skies are generally a very rich blue even at midday; (2) the lens used is a wide angle (22mm equivalent on 35mm format) (3) Olympus cameras are known for rich blues partly due to the telecentricity of the four-thirds lenses. I don't use a polarizing filter!

Tips for travel in Tibet

• It generally seems to be much easier and cheaper organising to get to Tibet from China than trying to cross the border from Nepal
• Visa and permit conditions change frequently, a good place to check what's happening is on the Lonely planet Thorn Tree Forum (even if they are under the misconception that Tibet is a country).
• Catching the train to Lhasa is highly recommended. For more information about the train, have a look at one of my favourite sites: Seat61 which has (almost) everything you'll ever need to know about train travel anywhere in the world.
• Its generally quite easy to organise a trip through Tibet an on to Nepal, though this generally means you need to hire a 4WD and guide seeing as independent travel isn't a favored option by local authorities
• Winter: My trip took place in winter - its cold, but also when the sky is clearest

Tibet isn't really the sort of place that you'll get regular luxury tourist accommodation unless you just stay in Lhasa. It is one of the poorest regions on Earth, and one of the toughest for day-to-day living for the locals. The combination of high altitude and the Himalayas trapping most of the rainfall on the Nepal side make it a very harsh environment.

In some towns, the best (or only) hotel will have basic rooms with lots of blankets, a living area that has a stove/heater fueled by dried yak manure, and separate toilets which consist of a hole in the concrete floor and a sheer drop to the outside below. Don't expect hot showers!