Potosi Silver mine, Bolivia

Ever wondered what "working the mines" must have been like in the days of the industrial revolution or what working conditions would be like without trade unions? A tour of the mines in Potosi, Bolivia will give you a much better idea.

At its peak Potosi was one of the most famous cities in Latin America and one of the richest. It was the source of some 45,000 tons of pure silver to be shipped to Spain, and home to the Potosi Mint.

While it may seem like there hasn't been much progress, at least conditions are now a little better than when the Spanish ran the show. At that time mercury was actively used to extract the silver, somewhere in the order of 15,000 indigenous workers died and 1500-2000 African slaves were imported each year to supplement the dwindling labor force.

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Tourists bearing gifts

Tours of the mine are conducted by a local former mine-worker who has "struck silver" in the form of interested travelers.

The mine in Potosi is still a fully functioning workplace. The real wealth has largely gone from the mountain, leaving local, mostly indigenous Bolivians to work hard and barely scrape out a living. After literally centuries of exploitation most of the rich seams of silver are gone, and what remains is mostly low grade rock and zinc.

The mines are now run by a series of mining collectives who are responsible for buying their own safety and mining equipment. Senior members of the collective or "bosses" don't earn a wage - they need to extract minerals at a profit to earn anything at all. In a good week they will be rewarded for their toils. If things are bad, they may get nothing and still have to pay their expenses.

Workers are paid a fixed wage that is good by local standards, but still a dismally small amount.

Before a tour of the mines, there is an obligatory stop to buy gifts for the miners. Mainly soft-drinks, bags of coca-leaf, some gloves and basic safety equipment and the odd stick of dynamite.

Ready to go down the mines

All dressed up ready to go down the mine. I'm wearing more protective equipment than most of the miners - ie. a paper face mask. The average life expectancy of miners is under 40 - many suffer from respiratory illnesses such as silicosis.

At an altitude of over 4000 meters, Potosi is one of the highest cities in the world. Miners suffering respiratory diseases are often unable to live at high altitude and need to move to other cities in Bolivia.

Miners spend all day down in the mine, but don't eat while underground out of superstitious reasons. Instead they spend all day chewing coca leaf for energy and consume copious amounts of sugary soft drinks.

Photo: Dressed in protective overalls, a hard-hard and a high-quality face-mask.

View over Potosi

Once one of the richest cities in the Americas, now only glimpses of the past glory (and infamy) remain. Cerro de Potosí looms large over the town. While there are a number of Spanish colonial buildings that remain, much of the city is now made up of much more modest housing.

Photo: Potosi in the morning light.